Pasta · Piedmont
Tajarin with Porcini Mushrooms
Tajarin with porcini mushrooms combines fine Piedmontese egg noodles and earthy mushrooms, with clear directions for fresh or dried porcini.
By Lucia Moretti (pen name) · · Editorial policy
Tajarin with porcini mushrooms is a Piedmontese pasta dish of fine egg noodles tossed with earthy mushrooms and butter. In the Langhe around Alba, tajarin are known for their thin ribbons and yolk-rich dough; porcini make a natural partner when they come into season. You can use fresh porcini or dried ones, which bring an especially concentrated flavor and a little soaking liquid for the pan.
The key is to cook the mushrooms until their moisture has evaporated and their edges begin to brown. That gives them flavor instead of leaving them pale and watery. Then I toss the noodles with butter and a splash of pasta water so the sauce clings without burying the mushrooms. Cook the tajarin just to al dente (firm to the bite); fine noodles need only a short time in the pot.
For another porcini supper, try my Porcini Mushroom Risotto Recipe, then finish with a Fresh Fig Crostata Recipe. Browning the mushrooms first and loosening the butter with pasta water makes this version flavorful but still light enough for the delicate noodles.
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The recipe
Tajarin with Porcini Mushrooms
Ingredients
for 4 servingsEquipment
- Large pot
- Wide skillet
- Fine-mesh strainer
- Coffee filter or paper towel
- Tongs or pasta fork
- Ladle
Method
If using dried porcini, cover them with 1 cup (240 ml) hot water and soak for 20 minutes, until soft. Lift them out, strain the soaking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer lined with a coffee filter, and reserve it. Slice the porcini. If using fresh, brush off any dirt with a damp towel and slice them; do not soak them.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the salt. Keep the water at a steady boil while you make the mushroom sauce.
Heat the olive oil and 2 tablespoons (28 g) of the butter in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms in a single layer, working in batches if needed. Cook fresh porcini for 6 to 8 minutes, or rehydrated porcini for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned at the edges.
Add the sliced garlic and cook for 30 seconds, just until fragrant. Pour in the wine and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes, until reduced by about half. If using dried porcini, add ⅓ cup (80 ml) of the reserved soaking liquid and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat while the pasta cooks.
Add the tajarin to the boiling water and cook according to the package directions, usually 1 to 3 minutes for fresh noodles. Taste a strand; it should be tender with a slight firm bite. Before draining, scoop out 1 cup (240 ml) of pasta water.
Return the skillet to low heat. Add the drained pasta, the remaining 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter, and ¼ cup (60 ml) pasta water. Toss for about 1 minute, adding more pasta water a tablespoon at a time until the butter forms a light coating on the noodles.
Turn off the heat and toss in the parsley. Taste and adjust the salt. Divide among warm bowls and serve at once with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Food safety
Use commercially sold porcini unless wild mushrooms have been identified by a qualified expert. Refrigerate leftover cooked pasta promptly.
Where it goes wrong
| If you see | It’s because | Do this |
|---|---|---|
| The mushrooms look pale and watery. | Why The pan was crowded, or the mushrooms were rinsed and went into the pan wet. | Fix Brush fresh porcini clean, dry them well, and cook in batches so moisture can evaporate. |
| The garlic tastes bitter. | Why It browned while the mushrooms were cooking. | Fix Add the sliced garlic only after the mushrooms have browned, and cook it briefly. |
| The sauce is greasy or clumps around the noodles. | Why The pasta was tossed with butter without enough starchy water, or the skillet was too hot. | Fix Lower the heat and toss in pasta water a tablespoon at a time until the sauce lightly coats the noodles. |
| The tajarin turn mushy. | Why Fine fresh noodles cook quickly and were left in the water too long. | Fix Check them early, follow the package timing, and drain as soon as they have a slight firm bite. |
| The dried porcini taste gritty. | Why Sediment from the soaking liquid made it into the sauce. | Fix Lift the mushrooms out and strain the liquid slowly through a coffee filter or a fine-mesh strainer lined with paper towel. |
Questions
Can I make tajarin with dried porcini?
Yes, dried porcini work well and have a concentrated flavor. Soak them in hot water until soft, strain the liquid carefully, and use a little of it in the sauce.
What pasta can I use instead of tajarin?
Fresh tagliolini is the closest easy substitute. Fresh egg tagliatelle also works, though its wider ribbons will give the dish a different texture.
Do I need to rinse fresh porcini mushrooms?
No, brush fresh porcini clean with a damp towel instead. Rinsing can leave them wet, which makes them steam rather than brown.
Can I make this pasta ahead?
The mushroom sauce can be made a few hours ahead and refrigerated, but cook the tajarin just before serving. Reheat the sauce gently and loosen it with pasta water.
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