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Pasta · Abruzzo

Maccheroni alla Chitarra with Lamb Ragù

Square-cut Abruzzese pasta pairs with slow-simmered lamb ragù, and a pasta machine rolls the dough evenly before the chitarra cuts it cleanly.

By Lucia Moretti (pen name) · · Editorial policy

Total
3 h 11 min
Difficulty
Medium
Serves
4
Save
Square pasta with lamb ragù, grated cheese, and rosemary sits in a brown bowl on linen beside a fork and cheese

In Teramo, the chitarra’s taut wires cut fresh pasta into square strands, giving them more grip than round spaghetti. This maccheroni alla chitarra pairs those noodles with slow-cooked lamb ragù; a pasta machine rolls the dough evenly before it goes over the wires. For more Abruzzese cooking, see Pallotte Cacio e Ova Recipe and Abruzzo Scrippelle ’Mbusse Soup.

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The recipe

Maccheroni alla Chitarra with Lamb Ragù

Servings
4
Units

Ingredients

for 4 servings

Equipment

  • pasta machine
  • chitarra pasta cutter
  • rolling pin
  • large pot
  • Dutch oven
  • instant-read thermometer
  • tongs

Method

  1. Mix the 00 flour and fine salt on a clean work surface, make a well, and add the eggs. Use a fork to draw in the flour, then knead until the dough is smooth and firm, about 15 minutes. If it feels crumbly after several minutes of kneading, dampen your hands and keep working rather than adding a lot of water.

    A smooth ball of pasta dough rests on a lightly floured work surface beside a fork
  2. Wrap the dough tightly and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes so the flour hydrates and the dough relaxes.

  3. Finely chop the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic, about 10 minutes.

  4. Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, then add the ground lamb. Break it into small pieces and cook until browned and it reaches 160°F (71°C), about 7 minutes.

    Ground lamb is browned in a Dutch oven with softened chopped onion, carrot, and celery
  5. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the red wine and scrape up the browned bits. Add the crushed tomatoes, broth, rosemary, bay leaf, salt, and black pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer, then partially cover and cook for 90 minutes, stirring now and then. The sauce should be thick, with no watery liquid pooling around the lamb. Remove the rosemary sprig and bay leaf.

    Thick tomato and lamb ragù simmers gently in a Dutch oven with a rosemary sprig visible
  6. Cut the rested dough into four pieces and keep the pieces you are not rolling covered. Flatten one piece and pass it through a pasta machine at its widest setting. Fold and pass it through again until smooth, then reduce the setting gradually to make a sheet about 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) thick. Dust lightly with semolina, lay the sheet over the chitarra wires, and roll a pin across it to cut the square strands. Repeat with the remaining dough, dusting the cut pasta so it does not stick. Allow about 20 minutes for rolling and cutting.

    Fresh square strands of pasta sit on a chitarra after a sheet of dough has been rolled across its wires
  7. Bring the water to a boil in a large pot, about 8 minutes, then stir in the kosher salt.

  8. Add the pasta and cook for 3 minutes, stirring once to separate the strands. Fresh chitarra pasta cooks quickly, so check a strand for a firm, tender bite.

  9. Transfer the pasta to the ragù with tongs, adding a splash of pasta water if the sauce needs loosening. Stir in the Pecorino Romano until it coats the strands, about 2 minutes, and serve at once with more cheese if desired.

Food safety

Do not taste the uncooked egg pasta dough. Wash your hands and clean work surfaces and utensils after handling it.

Make ahead and storage

Make the ragù up to 3 days ahead and refrigerate it promptly, within 2 hours of cooking. Refrigerate leftover sauce and pasta within 2 hours of cooking, and use them within 3 to 4 days. Reheat the sauce and pasta to 165°F (74°C). Fresh uncooked pasta can be dusted with semolina, frozen in loose nests until firm, then stored in a freezer bag.

Where it goes wrong

If you seeIt’s becauseDo this
The dough tears or springs back while rolling.Why It has not rested long enough, or it has dried out while uncovered.Fix Keep the dough wrapped for the full rest and cover the pieces you are not rolling.
The finished ragù is watery.Why The pot was covered too tightly or the sauce simmered too gently to reduce.Fix Partially uncover the pot and simmer until the sauce clings to a spoon before tossing with the pasta.

Questions

Can you make maccheroni alla chitarra without a chitarra?

You can cut the rolled sheets into strands with a sharp knife, but they will be flat rather than square. For the characteristic square shape, use a chitarra and press the sheet over its wires with a rolling pin.

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